4.3.16

Best of London Fashion Week Autumn / Winter feat. Daks London and Alexander McQueen

Following on from New York's gothic presentations for Autumn Winter 2016, London followed suit with a plethora of black lace, velvet and fur. It is clear that there is a Victorian influence for the coming season, with hints of film noir coming through. Again, masculine tailoring combined with feminine lace accents appeared to be dominant, and similarly, underwear as outerwear reigned supreme in the Soho location for London Fashion Week.
Although I didn't attend fashion week this season, the location change from Somerset House to Brewer Street Car Park seemed dubious. In September, logistically it seemed difficult to have such a large-scale event in the narrow cobbled streets of Soho, with pedestrians and vehicles attempting to get through the flamboyant and well dressed London fashion elite. However, the new location is far more in keeping with London's notorious edgy style, as opposed to New York's sports chic, the Parisian Avant-Garde or the Milan extravagance and gold. Somerset House, while is a beautiful space, and worked well for several years, was slightly old fashioned in terms of British fashion, which is not about affluent people in designer labels.
I've learnt a lot about the 'trickle down' theory in fashion. That is to say that fashions and trends start with the high end fashion houses, and are then interpreted by the high street in less expensive versions. Think of that rant that Miranda Priestly gives Andy in The Devil Wears Prada about her blue jumper. In many ways, this is true. However, more and more in modern fashion, perhaps due to the raise of the fashion blogger and the immediacy and ease of the internet, there is an increase in the trickle up effect in fashion. That is to say that street style is having more of an impact on high fashion, rather than the other way round. Trend forecasters don't look exclusively at the fashion elite, as was the case for many years. Now the art students, and the young people who are experimental with their style are viewed as inspiration.   
Thus, the move to Soho is a natural development and reflection of the evolution of modern fashion.

Alike to New York, gothic style, much to my delight, was prominent in the likes of Daks London and Alexander McQueen.
Daks was a dark surprise and evoked the powerful, mysterious femme fatale. Mixing masculine with feminine in tailored tuxedo jackets, wide legged trousers and pussy bow shirts alongside beautifully draped sheer and lace dresses and velvet and feather maxi skirts. There was an evident vintage influence in the silhouettes, and to some extent, the modesty of the pieces. Despite very little skin being on show,and the skin that was, was veiled in lace or mesh, the women oozed sexiness. Simple hair paired with smokey eyes completed the look, and was definitely a stand out collection.

McQueen's return to London Fashion Week after a stint at Paris Fashion Week was a triumph and echoed several themes seen in January's Men's collection. Namely, the use of the Victorian butterfly and moth motifs. Again, masculine / feminine asethetic was obvious with sharp tailoring combined with lingerie inspired garments. Leather, lace and fur also featured highly, with the addition of layered chain necklaces and pins in leather jackets. The collection was cohesive and the women looked powerful and sexy. Sarah Burton is definitely keeping Lee McQueen's ethos of empowering women through the McQueen brand.

See below my top pics from the Daks and McQueen shows, with an honorable mention to the Pam Hogg show at Fashion Scout.
DAKS




McQUEEN


PAM HOGG


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