As another September begins, the fashion offerings for the coming Spring Summer commence. Beginning in New York, fashion month usually starts with the chic collections of DVF and Victoria Beckham and the sports chic collections of Wang. However, this year, Givenchy decided to show in New York as opposed to their traditional presence at Paris Fashion Week at the closing of the month.
The tragedy of 9/11 occurred 14 years ago whilst fashion week was occurring, and continues to fall in the midst of NYFW. A certain level of respect must be paid to such a monumental event that shaped so much of American, specifically New Yorker's, lives. Riccardo Tisci, designer for Givenchy, made the bold decision to move the collection showing to New York to be shown on September 11th, in collaboration with Marina Abramovic who was the artistic director of the show. To pay their respect to the tragedy fourteen years previous, the set she created as a backdrop to the show utilised recycled materials and debris. The soundtrack was that of six different cultures and religions, to give the notion of inclusion.
The collection itself was monochromatic and included silk and lace accents. There was a strong sense of underwear as outerwear, which to me as a fashion history student, drew influence from the pyjamas of the twenties and thirties. Silk kimono's with wide leg satin trousers are reminiscent of the luxe loungewear worn by the twenties elite, with lace over bare skin acting as feminine accents to contrast the largely masculine silhouettes.
As with the previous season, it appears that fashion is very much looking to the past for inspiration and moreover it seems as though the macabre Victorian era is a primary source of inspiration. Which, on a personal level, I am appreciating greatly!
images courtesy of vogue.co.uk
Posted by Jade Bailey-Dowling