As previously stated here on Nouvelle Noire, New York Fashion Week isn't personally the best for coming season offerings or inspiration. Favouring sportswear and 'normcore' styles, I find NYFW dull and pretty 'normal'. However two designer's Autumn Winter collections stood out this past week, for their Victorian inspired, black-heavy collections; Thom Browne and Marc Jacobs.
The exclusively black collection played upon masculine tailoring in womenswear for an androgynous collection, with veiled headpieces and fur accents suggesting influence from mourning attire of the Victorian era. This is interesting following on from the recent 'Death Becomes Her' exhibition held in the Anna Wintour Costume Gallery at the Metropolitan Museum of Art that closed 1st Feb. I love the use of different textures to give dimension to the all black outfits, and the flat shoes are a huge appeal for me.
Marc Jacobs closed New York Fashion Week and the best was most certainly left until last. Another Victorian-esque collection, Jacobs unlike Browne went uber feminine for Autumn Winter 15, with accentuated waists, midi length skirts and layering. Again, it was a largely black collection, with red, deep blue and leopard print highlights throughout. Although the clothes were beautiful, it was actually the beauty look that caught my eye first. Very twenties inspired, with a heavy rounded brow, grey blended eyeshadow and a small, berry lip the Marc Jacobs beauty look evoked the early twentieth century ideals, which especially worked with the look at the top right.
Overall, as expected the majority of New York's collections left me a unimpressed. However, the Browne and Jacobs collections give me hope of darker fashions to come in London and Paris!
image source - vogue.co.uk