11.1.14

LONDON COLLECTIONS: MEN - THE ROUND UP

The rising attention on men's fashion, reflected in the greater focus of LC:M, interests me greatly. Having been a contributor to Men's Fashion Magazine and worked at Topman, men's styling has become  something I am passionate about. I often thought to myself how well dressed I would be if I were a man!
It's always refreshing when people take pride in their appearance; I don't think it's vain to have an interest in fashion. Fashion is about expression, so a well put together, creative outfit attracts my attention immediately, whether the wearer is a man or woman.

My first encounter of LC:M was at the Peter Worth x Saville Row A/W 13 catwalk show in January of last year. Held at the Cafe de Paris, this was the first time I'd really taken notice of men's fashion from a journalistic point of view. 

This January however, I made sure to follow all the news and collections of all 3 days of men's fashion in London. Along with the big names, there were several newer, up-and-coming designers, all showing excellent A/W fashion. On the whole, I think it's fair to say that men's fashion for the latter part of this year is definitely dark, mysterious and slightly fetishist. Think leather, guy-liner and a lot of black. I was really impressed with a lot of the collections, however here are my LC:M highlights...

DAY ONE

My Monday highlights was definitely the Fashion East AW Installation. The unique presentation rather than a standard, sit down show like others, was really in keeping with the brand. Always different, and showing new, edgy designers, the installation was a clever way to present the upcoming collections of various designers, including my favourites Liam Hodges, Tom Ryling and Massimo Casagrande.





DAY TWO

My day two highlight was, of course, Alexander McQueen. Ever a fan of McQueen's new offerings, Menswear A/W 14 did not fail to satisfy me. Alexander McQueen had a fascination with birds, a reoccuring motif that has appeared in several collections throughout his career, and continuing as his legacy, which was very apparent in this collection with the models wearing feathers on their heads. Tailoring took a dark turn in this collection, with sumptuous velvet blazers and metallic collar accents.




DAY THREE

The final show of the final day was my highlight. The A. Sauvage show saw a colour that was repeated lots across many shows, and one that I think will translate to women's A/W 14 too; an oily, petrol colour. I love this colour because at first it looks black, but the depth of bottle greens, purples and blues it gives off under different lights. It reminds me of the colour of beetles, which fascinate me. Dazed Digital described the collection as 'What mods, punks and rudeboys grew up to be', which I think suits this perfectly, with the sharp tailoring, yet still holding on to a rebellious edge.




Although I've selected my daily highlights, the Bobby Abley A/W 14 collection intrigied me so much that I had to name this as my overall highlight of LC:M. As I mentioned previously, there was an air of fetishism and S&M about the A/W 14 menswear collections. Tom Ryling for example showed balaclavas, covering of the mouth, thus gagging to a certain degree. Bobby Ablet however, epitomised this theme. His collection was based on the 1929 Mickey Mouse cartoon titled ‘Haunted House’ which  you can watch here. It felt like you were a voyeur in a strange horror fantasy with Mickey Mouse ears, metal mouth pieces and barbed wire prints. I loved it.
  



all images from DazedDigital.com

Overall, the trends for menswear for A/W 14 appear to be leather accents, nods towards fetishism and a punk revival. I do hope these are also present in the upcoming LFW shows!


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